GILGIT: Renowned Pakistani climber Sirbaz Khan on Sunday successfully summited Mount Kangchenjunga (8,586 metres), the world’s third highest peak situated in Nepal, without supplemental oxygen.

With this latest accomplishment, he becomes the first Pakistani to complete all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks — commonly referred to as the eight-thousanders — without any additional oxygen support, a feat achieved by only a handful of elite mountaineers globally.

In his 30s, the mountaineer from Aliabad area of Hunza had earlier in October 2024 summited all the 14 peaks, though some with support of bottled oxygen.

Pakistani climbers including Naila Kiani, Sajid Sadpara, civil society members and political leaders have congratulated Sirbaz for his historical feat.

Imagine Nepal, the tour organisers of Sirbaz, said, “We extend our heartfelt congratulations to Sirbaz Khan — our dear friend, client, and partner from Pakistan — on his incredible achievement of summiting Kanchenjunga (8,586m), the world’s third-highest mountain, without supplemental oxygen this morning, May 18, 2025.”

Alpine Club of Pakistan Secretary Karrar Haidri, said, “Sirbaz Khan has made the entire nation proud. Completing all 14 eight-thousanders without oxygen is a rare and heroic achievement. He is a symbol of Pakistani resilience, skill, and courage.”

Sirbaz achieved a landmark in the history of high-altitude climbing by successfully summiting Mount Kangchenjunga at 4:15am. What makes this feat extraordinary is that Sirbaz scaled the world’s third-highest mountain without the use of supplementary oxygen — marking a defining moment in Pakistan’s mountaineering legacy. His accomplishment was made in the spirit of pure alpine climbing — minimal gear, no fixed ropes or camps set by Sherpas, and no additional oxygen support — a style that represents the truest and most demanding form of mountaineering.

Sirbaz’s journey to this historic milestone has spanned over a decade of determination, discipline, and sheer courage. He has successfully scaled the following 14 peaks over 8,000m — all without bottled oxygen: Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhau­lagiri, Man­aslu, Nanga Parbat, Anna­purna-I, Gash­er­­brum-I, Broad Peak, Gasher­brum-II and Shi­sha­pangma.

On four of these expeditions, he had been accompanied by late Muhammad Ali Sadpara.

Before setting on the mission to summit Dhaulagiri peak last year, he had said: “I am looking forward to his expedition and reaching closer to the dream of my mentor Ali Sadpara, who had the similar dream of scaling the 14 highest peaks, but tragically lost his life during a winter expedition on K2.”

He began his climbing career in 2016, but this record-breaking summit of Mount Kangchenjunga not only cemented his place among the top mountaineers of all time but also brought immense pride to the nation, particularly the mountaineering community of Gilgit-Baltistan from where Sirbaz hails.

Sirbaz’s mission has always been to represent Pakistan on the world’s highest stages and inspire the next generation of climbers to follow his path with the same passion and perseverance.

Later, in post on X, former foreign minister and minister for state on foreign affairs, Hina Rab­bano Khar, said, “Scaling all fourteen 8000-ers Alpine style, Sirbaz Khan makes Pakistan proud.”

Published in Dawn, May 19th, 2025